Vikram Mehta
Adventure Travel Writer ·
Most travellers visit Kashmir in summer, but winter reveals a completely different — and utterly magical — side of the valley.
Kashmir in December and January is a world transformed. The Dal Lake freezes at its edges, the Mughal gardens lie dormant under a blanket of snow, and the mountains that ring the valley turn a brilliant, blinding white. It's a side of Kashmir that relatively few travellers see — and it's extraordinary.
Gulmarg is the centrepiece of a winter Kashmir trip. At 2,650 metres, it receives some of the heaviest snowfall in Asia, and the Gulmarg Gondola — one of the world's highest cable cars — lifts you to slopes that rival anything in the Alps. Skiing here has improved dramatically in recent years, with equipment rental and lessons available for beginners.
Back in Srinagar, a stay on a heated houseboat on Dal Lake is one of travel's great experiences. The lake is quieter in winter, the light is extraordinary in the early morning, and the Kashmiri hospitality — always warm — feels even more so when the temperature outside is below freezing.
The food in winter Kashmir is exceptional. Wazwan, the traditional Kashmiri feast, is at its best in the cold months — rich lamb dishes, fragrant rice, and the famous Kashmiri kahwa tea, spiced with saffron and cardamom, served in copper samovars. It's the kind of food that warms you from the inside out.
Expert Tips
Pack serious winter clothing — temperatures in Gulmarg can drop to -10°C or below.
Book a heated houseboat on Dal Lake for an authentic and cosy experience.
Hire a local guide for skiing at Gulmarg — the terrain can be challenging for beginners.
